Tuesday, January 31, 2017

Queenstown

Queenstown is the adventure capital of New Zealand, given the many options for bungee jumping, sky diving and other exciting activities that are available here. Many bars and restaurants are open until 4am, so it is no wonder that this is an attractive destination for the 20-something crowd. The workers and the visitors are predominantly international (so much so that the "walk on the left" rule doesn't seem to apply here). We are staying in a hostel (though with our own room and bathroom) so the average resident is at least 10 years younger than us!

Yesterday we inquired about renting mountain bikes for the adventure park nearby, but after a few words of caution from the rental staff and looking up some YouTube videos of the track, we decided to find another activity. We crossed Lake Wakatipu aboard the steamship TSS Earnslaw and took a guided tour of the countryside on electric bikes.

Sunday, January 29, 2017

Journey to Queenstown

Farmer's market goodies

Today we are taking the bus to Queenstown to avoid 30km of twisty, narrow, and busy highway. The first bus isn't until 3:30pm so we had time to visit the local farmer's market! We asked the cherry lady where her orchard was, and she just pointed and replied "that hill over there". Her stand proclaims to be the oldest cherry orchard in the area, dating back to 1935. The cherries are big and delicious :)

Saturday, January 28, 2017

Seeing the sights in Cromwell

We started mapping out the rest of our trip. There isn't enough time to see everything!!!

Friday, January 27, 2017

Cromwell

We spent yesterday in Alexandra as a rest/planning day. Originally this was because we couldn't find accommodation in Queenstown for Friday, but it was really nice to give the legs a rest and take the time to stroll around town. We found accommodation in Queenstown starting Sunday, so we will also spend 2 nights in Cromwell. We have entered orchard & winery country, so we will have plenty to explore tomorrow!

Somewhere between Alexandra and Cromwell

Tuesday, January 24, 2017

Omakau

We are spending the night at a campground and this is the first time using our tent. It's a little windy out, but otherwise everything seems to be holding up ok! Hope we feel the same way in the morning :)

Monday, January 23, 2017

Middlemarch to Ranfurly + Naseby Curling

Time for a post from Neil :)

So we're following the Central Otago Rail Trail. The original tracks were put in from Dunedin to Cromwell to open up the interior to development. Originally funded by the gold rush of 1860s-70s, it the line was mainly completed in the 1890s. Come 1980s is was minimally used and discontinued. It was converted to a rail trail in the early 90s. Climate in the area is the only location in NZ that is "continental".

The trail itself is primarily pea gravel. Fairly nice to ride though a bit sticky when it's wet. Numerous bridges and so far one tunnel en route. Most people seem to ride

We started by taking the Taieri Gorge train from Dunedin, which follows the Taieri River. Every so often the train runs to Middlemarch and the rail trail head, but most of the time the train turns around at Pukerangi. So we disembarked at Pukerangi and rode to Middlemarch. At Pukerangi we disembarked with others, a flurry of buses and the departure of the train ensued. And we were left with just us.... it was pleasently quiet. We then rode the 20km to Middlemarch, stopping by the Sutton Salt Lake en route. I'm told this was used in one of the LotR films but can't picture the scene myself

Middlemarch is.... tiny. 1 "store" (front room of a house converted into selling limited food), the pub serves food 2 hrs each day, and a cafe. Very limited. We spent the night at a campground and left the next morning despite the rain.

Middlemarch to Ranfurly was 60km of rail trail. Initially uphill with a tail wind, then switched to a head wind as we turned part way through the day. We passed many riders going the other direction - they looked miserable riding into a headwind with rain. None of them were really dressed for it though (we had our wonderful rain gear on and stayed relatively dry). Distance wise we may have opted for a shorter distance except there were no other suitable stops en route (though we did have dinner in Waipiata.... Scenery was notable for a cute campsite by the river, scenic shots of the Taieri River, bursting streams from the rain, sheep, cattle, and hills.
 
Ranfurly (~1060 people) itself is cute. Originally named Eweburn, it was a community founded in 1897 to be a hub for the rail line, the site having been chosen due to the flat land. When it was founded Naseby (~14km away in the hills) was the larger centre, having grown in the gold rush. Once Ranfurly was founded it boomed and Naseby faded. Ranfurly itself had a series of fires in the 1930s and a large part of the town is in art deco style which is quite pretty. In terms of services it's booming: 2 grocery stores, a pharmacy, a book store, 2 cafes, a restaurant/pub, car mechanic etc... compared to Middlemarch - lovely :)

Today was a "rest day". We spent 2 nights in Ranfurly. With the free day we rode unloaded to Naseby, where we toured the village, including the only dedicated curling rink in the Southern Hemisphere! Naseby was cute and we had lunch here before heading back to Ranfurly to walk around and enjoy a drink at the pub.

Tomorrow it's back on the rail trail, targeting Omakau for tomorrow night, then on to Alexandra, Cromwell, and Queenstown for the weekend. We plan on resting for a few days in Queenstown and then will continue on... somewhere :)

Thursday, January 19, 2017

Blue Penguins

The weather today was miserable, with high winds and lots of rain. We knew it was coming - a cruise ship arrived in Dunedin yesterday, one day early due to the anticipated bad weather. If a ship won't sail in this weather, we sure aren't going outside either!

Luckily, the only thing on our schedule today was a different penguin tour at dusk. So we spent the first 2/3 of the day indoors, reading, napping, watching the New Zealand cooking show "Hunger for the Wild", and eating. Not a bad way to spend a day on vacation :)

The weather did finally start to clear around 5pm, so we made a break for it and rode 3km up the road to the Royal Albatross Center. Not too long after we arrived, it started raining again! But it stopped before we went on a tour to the royal albatross observation deck, where we could see albatross parents incubating their eggs and juveniles playing around, taking flight, soaring around and landing again (landing is not easy in high winds). From there, we continued to a tour of Fort Tairoa, which was originally built as a response to a threat from Russia in the late 1800s.

At 9:15pm (sunset is ~9:30pm) we headed down to the beach to wait for the little blue penguins, which are just 25cm tall and 1kg in weight, to come home from a day of fishing. Unlike the yellow-eyed penguins, the blue penguins travel in groups. We saw a few large groups of penguins reach the beach together, as well as a couple singletons who waited for their companions on the beach before scurrying up to their homes in a pack. They move surprisingly quickly!

Wednesday, January 18, 2017

Penguin Video :)

Penguins!!!

Maggie is a yellow-eyed penguin. We watched her walk up the beach and along her path home after a day of fishing to feed her offspring. The conservation area has a series of covered trenches with lookout slots that allow us to view the penguins without disturbing them. Our guide knew which penguins still hadn't come home for the day (just Maggie) and which path they would take, so we were very lucky that she came back during our tour time.

Dunedin Test Ride

We arrived in Dunedin yesterday and built our bikes. Today we dropped off my bike at a bike store for a few adjustments, roamed around downtown while waiting and then went off for a test ride (including testing the waterproofing on our rain gear!).

Touristy highlights of Dunedin:
- New Zealand's 6th largest city at ~127,000 people
- Settlers Museum that describes Dunedin from its original Maori times, the first European influences (whalers), the next European influences (missionaries), the gold rush, Victorian times...all the way through to the early 2000s
- beautiful train station 

- Cadbury chocolate factory (though we didn't take the tour)
- Baldwin St, the world's steepest street, which we did not bike up or even walk our bikes up

Monday, January 16, 2017

Dinner

We were lured inside by the sign and we were not disappointed! The restaurant was called Buddha Stix, serving thai/asian fusion food.


Pictures of the meal are on Neil's phone... 
- Coconut mojito
- Beef cheek Panang curry
- Crispy pork belly stir fry

Updating with photo of our meal :)


More fun things at the grocery store

A whole leg ham for $100, anyone? That's over 10kg of ham!


Penguin brand potato chips

A whole shelf of yogurt poweder. You add water, pour it into a yogurt maker, and then voila! Yogurt! Yogurt makers for sale on the bottom shelf. 

We actually bought this one - delicious local cider. With a picture of a sheep wearing a wool hat =)

Starbursts have many different types of candy....

Somersby comes in packs



Coffee is everywhere!

The prevalence of Dunkin Donuts is confusing

(Dunkin Donuts is headquartered in Massachusetts)

Sunday, January 15, 2017

Auckland Art Gallery

We accidentally spent the whole afternoon at the art gallery. We hustled there for the 1:30pm tour, where a volunteer guide rambled through the architecture of the building and various other exhibits. First picture: museum extension built in 2011 featuring kauri trees, which are protected so the wood must be sourced from fallen trees or recycled from other projects.


The guide also discussed an interactive exhibit by Lee Mingwei called "The Art of Participation". One of his projects is called "Sonic Blossom", and involves a student from the University of Auckland's music program walking around the museum, finding a random visitor, and offering them a song. During the tour the guide noticed the music student walk by with the volunteer, and she hustled us over to the Renaissance exhibit so we could watch. The visitor was seated in a specific chair that normally has a "do not touch" sign on it. The music student stood about 20 feet from the visitor and sung a beautiful Schubert song (Auf dem Wasser zu singen). The acoustics of the setup, and the talent of the student was simply amazing.  I wish I had a video of the performance. (Funny sidenote - there are some videos of the Sonic Blossom on YouTube, including some from the MFA in Boston from last year! Sometimes you have to travel halfway across the world to appreciate something that used to be in your own backyard!)

The highlight of the whole gallery was a series of Maori portraits by Gottfried Lindauer. A little background: Lindauer was a portrait artist from what is now the Czech Republic. As photography took off in Europe, Lindauer found himself out of a job and moved to New Zealand. In New Zealand, a man named Henry Partridge commissioned Lindauer to paint portraits of the Maori people, whose lives and culture were being turned upside down by the arrival of Europeans. Maori history was originally transmitted orally, without written or graphical documentation, so these portraits have now become a valuable piece of history. While exploring this gallery, we stumbled across a 3pm talk about Maori ancestry, where some 4th, 5th and 6th generation descendants from some of the chiefs depicted in the portraits discussed their ancestors and what these paintings mean to them. 


In addition to teaching us some important New Zealand history (Treaty of Waitangi, signed Feb 6 1840 declaring New Zealand part of the British Empire), the talk also highlighted details in the art that we wouldn't have noticed normally. There were some portraits of the chiefs who were in power when the Europeans first arrived. Then in the portraits of the generations to follow, the European influence starts to become apparent, in the clothes (shirts) and the technology (guns) depicted.


The exhibit also included other significant items including:
- visitor books from the early 1900s when these portraits were on display. Some pages were written in Maori, and some were written in English, including one comment about the interesting history of these "British subjects" 
- the appeal from the City of Auckland to raise £10,000 to donate to the post-WWI Belgian Relief Fund, which was a condition that Partridge required to be met before he would donate his entire collection of portraits to the Auckland Art Gallery (the public met the fundraising goal in a matter of weeks)

This was the most fascinating art gallery I've ever visited. Let the record show that this is the first (and possibly only) time that I outlasted Neil in a museum =)

Fun finds at the grocery store

Auckland Hotel

The view of the Sky Tower from our "balcony". The balcony is just large enough to stand on =)



Our "coffee and tea maker"! =) Back left is a packet of "freshly ground plunger coffee". 

Saturday, January 14, 2017

Arrival in New Zealand

New Zealand is 23 hours ahead of Hawaii. We boarded our plane on Friday morning and arrived Saturday evening!



Exiting onto the tarmac gave us a sense of how big our 787 really was





The airport terminal was impressive - and presented a dizzying array of duty free options before we even made it to passport control. We purchased our Vodafone SIM cards before we pulled out our passports! Passport control was really easy - we just inserted our passports into a kiosk, answered one single question about whether or not we have ever been in jail, and then the kiosk printed a ticket that we inserted into the exit stalls that also took our picture. Almost as easy as passing through a subway gate.

The more complicated part was the biosecurity control - being an island, New Zealand is very cautious about the pests that could be brought into the country. We had to declare our hiking shoes and camping gear, and we were diverted into a secondary control area so someone could inspect our tent. Curiously, the officer was more interested in the tent itself and didn't bother looking at the ground sheet - we suspect he was looking for bugs that might have been trapped inside. What he didn't know is that Neil hasn't used his tent since 2014!

Once we made it out of the airport, we hopped onto the SkyBus shuttle, which has a stop directly in front of our hotel downtown.

Fun facts about our hotel:
- the light switches are backwards from what we're used to: flipping the switch down turns the lights on
- the room description said a coffee/tea maker is included - instead of a coffee percolator, we have a kettle and a french press, along with packets of ground coffee, hot chocolate and many different types of tea!

Air New Zealand - amazing!

Our Boeing 787 is easily the fanciest plane (and probably the largest) I have ever been on.  The window shades were electric and you could tint the windows. Music played in the bathroom and the lighting made it seem like a nightclub.  The touch screens were super modern.


The safety video was the most entertaining one I've seen. Additional versions of their safety videos were also available to watch, including a Hobbit version. Lots of New Zealand information on offer as well, from slideshows about road rules and local tv shows ("Shearing Gang", about the life of New Zealand sheep shearers, was awesome).

The touchscreens also contained a hilarious chat feature - which would have been pretty useful if we weren't sitting right next to each other


And we treated ourselves to some slightly upgraded seats, so we could turn our seats into a couch of sorts. It came with a full set of instructions and a separate package of seatbelts so you could sprawl out and still technically be belted in.  A little frivolous perhaps, but also pretty awesome.







Friday, January 13, 2017

MinuteMaid? Not in Hawaii!

After Hal's talk, the general audience was ushered out into the courtyard and entertained with drinks and food while the committee gets into the technical questioning. Everyone is also holding leis, ready to celebrate when Hal emerges!

Soaking in the local culture

What to do while staying in campus at the University of Hawaii surrounded by grad students? Attend a doctoral defense!
Fun fact #1: All committee members appear to be wearing Hawaiian shirts.
Fun fact #2: Apparently, after the defense is over (and successful), Hal will be draped with many leis per local tradition

Wednesday, January 11, 2017

Errands, Waikiki, and acai bowls

We ran a few errands today to prep for New Zealand. When we first arrived, we asked Brendan where to go to find some of the things we still needed. The answer: online. And it's true, the in-store selection here is not as abundant as anywhere on the mainland (except, of course, for pineapple, banana and papaya!).

We also strolled through the touristy beach and streets of Waikiki and then stopped at Diamondhead Health Bar for acai bowls.

Waikiki

Acai bowls: acai base (frozen puree, like a sorbet) topped with granola, dried coconut, fresh fruit, and honey. Top bowl also contains a scoop of taro and a sprinkle of hemp seed. Bottom bowl was 1/2 acai and 1/2 dragonfruit. We need to figure out how to make these when we return home!