Tourism!

On my first day off here, at the suggestion of my host, I hired a tour guide (actually a friend at NCCDF) plus driver to see the sites. Total cost was $70, which included guide, driver, and car for the day plus admission to the sites and lunch. Overall not a bad deal, especially as I was by myself in a city a knew nothing about.

First, some historical context from Wikipedia, Lonely Planet Guidebook, tourist brochures, and word of mouth. Kathmandu was founded at a strategic location where two rivers join and was originally a trading post on the India-Tibet trade route. The Malla dynasty ruled from ~1200 until their conquest by the Shah dynasty in 1768. The founder of the Shah dynasty actually united all of Nepal as we know it today. The dynasty lasted until 2008 when Nepal converted to a constitutional democracy following 10 years of civil war.

During the Malla reign, in 1482, the kingdom was split into three: Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur. Today Patan is essentially part of Kathmandu, while Bhaktapur somewhat maintains its identity.

Kathmandu Durbar Square

First up in travelling was Durbar Square in old Kathmandu. Durbar = palace and this was the original seat of government during the Malla reign, later adopted by the Shah dynasty as the palace location for all of Nepal. The square is full of temples, shrines and statues, as welthe original 18th century, and subsequent early 20th century palaces. There is also the temple of Kumari, the living goddess. The goddess is chosen from the Newari (natives of Kathmandu valley) people, and must meet something like 200 attributes. Typically she is around 4 years old when chosen, and her tenure as goddess is over when she has her first period.

While in Durbar Square I went into the old palace (included with admission to the square for tourists). The palace was impressive and it was great to see the former coronation square and equipment. There was also a strange museum that was founded decades ago to promote recent members of the royal family, and hasn't changed since. Very different from Western museums.

Overall Durbar square is bustling, noisy, and very touristy. Even with my own guide I was approached by people asking if I needed a guide! This was also true when I returned on the Lonely Planet walking tour (another post to come :)

Kumari's temple. The detailed woodwork is classic for most of the historic temples and buildings in Nepal

Palaces. The white neo-classical one was inspired by the architecture in London and built in the early 1900s.

Temples in Durbar Square

Durbar Square proper

The original building which gave it's name to Kathmandu. Apparently built with one tree.

View from up the palace. In the distance on the hill is Swayambunath

 Patan Square (Lalitpur)

One of the other former capitals, Patan square is not quite as large. I thought it was overall prettier and a nicer atmosphere than Durbar square. We enjoyed the square from a handy lookout, wandered around it, and then had lunch at a cute cafe overlooking the square.

Me at Patan Square! Significant Hindu temple is on the left of the photo. The palace is on the right.

View from the cafe

Random political rally we ran into. This is for the Congress Party, which recently won the election over the Communist Party.

Water source. These historic wells are quite common and apparently fill right up during monsoon season. During winter there are taps running in the bottom. Any water sitting the bottom is not very clean.

Swayambhu Nath (aka The Monkey Temple)
The highlight of the day was Swayambhu Nath. It's a Buddhist Stupa originally built in ~450AD, but most recently renovated in 2008. It is one of the holiest sites in Buddhism, but is also revered by Hindus and there is a Hindu temple at the site. It is also known as the monkey temple due to the large numbers of monkeys running around the complex.

Monkeys at the Monkey Temple

Me at Swayambhu Nath!

Swayambhu Nath