Weekend 3: Bhaktapur

Weekend 3 (and final) started with an impromptu trip with Nipesh and Sahadev to Thamel square the Friday night for some drinks and live music. It was quite cold so we sat outside by the fire (there being no heat inside, as is standard for buildings here). I was grateful for this because smoking was quite common there and my lungs were happier outside. Drink wise it was a bit of dilemma because I didn't want beer, but travel advice was to avoid ice. I ended up starting with Glen Fiddich scotch straight. The music was a band doing covers of primarily Western songs but there were some Nepali ones as well. We also ran into two Australian army men on leave who had just arrived in Nepal. All in all a good evening.

Saturday I met up with Yeshey and we took the bus to Bhaktapor. This time it was a 90min bus ride sitting facing backwards. I had felt mildly nauseous before boarding, and was very nauseous by the end. Fortunately no vomiting! Total cost was 60NPR for both of us. Home was by taxi for 800 NPR - a lot more, but my stomach appreciated it!

Bhaktapor is the third of the three city states formed during the Malla dynasty (the others being Kathmandu and Patan). All three are traditional Newari settlements (the native ethnic group for the Valley). The people of Bhaktapor are historically known for their wood carving skills and it showed: there were streets upon streets of historic building with amazing detail. There were also many squares, including a Durbar (palace) square, and Peacock Square named for a detailed carving of a Peacock in a window.

Peacock square

The eponymous Peacock

We spent a lot of time in Peacock Square, including lunch at the Peacock Cafe. There we also toured the Paper Factory where they make paper using traditional methods. It was quite impressive as the processes for making pulp, dry into sheets, rolling to flatten were all there. There was also a printing press and the tools for carving the dies. This was all contained in connected historic Newari homes that they were slowly restoring.

Dhal Bhaat in Peacock Square

Making paper

And drying in the sun

Me on the roof

Overall Bhaktapor was my favourite of the three former city states: it was quiet, still very historic, and not too touristy. Apparently here I rated as a tourist attraction - a young Indian woman (early 20s?) touring enthusiastically asked to have her photo taken with me! Unfortunately I forgot to have a photo with her on my camera!