Istanbul

After leaving India I stopped over in Istanbul for 5 days on my way back home. Flight over was luxurious as I was upgraded to Comfort Class. First time I was upgraded. The flight also was my first time with wifi on board, and first time where a doctor was asked for (I identified myself, but they had an actual licensed doctor already).

Istanbul / Constantinople / Byzantine is a city steeped in history. It has been populated since at least 4000 BC, and gained prominence around 0 when it grew under the Roman Empire. It was the seat of Empire for almost 1500 years, first the Byzantine Empire from 395 - 1451 and subsequently the Ottoman Empire until 1923. At it’s founding, the modern Turkish Republic’s capital was deliberately moved to Ankara away from the legacy of Empire in Istanbul. Modern day Istanbul is a large metropolis (pop. ~12 million) which straddles the Bosphorus, existing in both Europe and Asia. It has historic sites, modern sites, and is a fantastic city to visit. I stayed and spent most of my time in Sultanahmet, the historic part of the city.

First up on touring was the Hippodrome. Here the Roman / Byzantine chariot races took place historically. It is now a large paved public space, but monuments from ancient times remain, including a monument from the original hippodrome, an Egyptian obelisk moved here in Roman times, and a Greek pillar from ~300BC, also moved during Roman times.

Hippodrome. Obelisk in the front, Roman pillar behind. The Greek one is short and in the middle. The empty space became quite crowded with tourists during the day time.

First up in touring was the Hagia Sophia. Founded as a church by Emperor Justine in ~536, the present day structure is by and large unchanged. With the conquest by the Ottomans in 1451, it was converted to a mosque and the 4 minarets added. With the founding of the secular republic, it was converted tmo a museum in the 1930s. The dome is apparently high enough to contain the Statue of Liberty or Notre Dame. Not bad for a 1500 year old building!

Hagia Sophia. The 4 minarets were added when it became a mosque.

Main hall. the black left is scaffolding. I deliberately left this photo larger than the others: Note the off-centre structure in the apse. The original church was oriented with the apse towards Jerusalem. When it became a mosque, it was necessary to have a frame of reference to Mecca. Mecca being south of Jerusalem, it results in this slight angle.

Spectacular mosaic

And another spectacular mosaic. I forget the era on this. The original Hagia Sophia was full of elaborate interior decorations as the Byzantines prized interior architecture (and did not value exterior architecture, thus the somewhat drab appearance of the exterior). Many mosaics were destroyed in 700s Iconoclast era, only to be replaced in around 1100

Next up on the museum tour was the Topkapi Palace, the historic seat of Empire for the Ottomans. The palace is designed with three nestled courtyards and is a hodgepodge of architecture as it was modified over the years. It’s notable for the Harem (where the Sultan, princes, wives, queen mother, and favourites lived), Divan (seat of government and decision making), and special exhibits. Included in these are elaborate jewels from the Ottoman treasury, as well as relics evacuated from Mecca during World War I. Included in these relics are purportedly Moses’ staff, David’s sword, Joseph’s turban, among others. I was sceptical to say the least.

Courtyard in the Harem. Fairly typical blue tiles, used throughout the buildings. Also note the elaborate mosaic path, consisting of black and white stones and leading to the Sultan's chambers.

Fountain in the Tulip Garden. Tulips became very popular among the Ottoman elite around the 1730s. Note also the exterior architecture, typical of later buildings in the palace.

The other key site in the trio is the Blue Mosque. It is constructed with domes, modelled off the Hagia Sophia. With 1100 years of improvements in architecture and engineering, it is much more elegant than the Hagia Sophia, and much more airy inside.

Other highlights of the trip included the Archaeology Museum, New Year’s Eve fireworks, the Grand Bazaar, and Taksim Square

Grand Bazaar. It was originally a collection of merchants guilds with specialized areas. over time it became more intense, and eventually was roofed. At it's peak it was the centre of trade for the Ottoman Empire. Now it's mainly a touristy shopping experience. Delightfully warm on a cold day from all the lamps and bodies though! (no direct heat).

Bas-relief from the Alexander Sarcophagus in the Archeology Museum. The sarcophagus is from ~300BC, and still has colour on the figures. It was a spectacular piece. It also made me realize our images of sterile white Rome/Greece are false - they really were quite colourful environments.

Taksim Square. Behind me is a large green area with trees, grass etc. In front is the giant open area you can see. The centre of modern Istanbul, and site of New Year's Eve celebrations, and recent protests.

Food in Istanbul seemed to work well, and I ate a lot of lamb :)

Mezopotamia Lamb at Cheer's Soup Kitchen. I ate here New Year's Eve, and liked it so much I came back my last night in Istanbul. It helped that they were by far the best with the allergies.

And so ends my travels. This post was written on the flight back and will be uploaded from Canada. A final piece reflecting on my experiences with healthcare in Nepal is to come.

I’m not sure what the fate of this blog will be. I’ll be busy back in classes, studying, and prepping for residency in the next while. Of course I have 6 weeks off before I start residency. I think I hear South America beckoning…