Friday, June 13, 2014

Bike Touring! Approach and Day 1: Hakodate to Yakumo

Finally a chance to update after five days of touring! I'll split them into individual ride posts for ease of reference though.

After Hiroshima we returned to Tokyo, spent the night via AirBnB with a math student studying English / French, grabbed the bikes and headed north. To take the bikes on the train we have to Ringko - but them in a bag then carry them through the station. The bagging itself is straight forward, but carrying bike, panniers etc through Tokyo station was a work out.

Our train up was a Shinkensen up to Aomori where we changed to a local train for the tunnel to Hokkaido. The tunnel is 50km long! We disembarked in Hakodate, a city a 200 000. The night was spent stealth camping by a local shrine. Dinner was a seafood restaurant. Brendan indulged while I ate rice, tofu, and salad.

*stealth camping = camp in a discreet corner of a park. Would generally be frowned upon but accepted or at least not banned here

Day 1 biking faced a choice: take the direct route north, or the quieter but longer route. We opted for the shorter route to enjoy our time in the touristy areas to the north.

The ride was main road most of the way. The traffic was tedious but it was a gorgeous day and gorgeous views! One major climb which wasn't too bad. Brendan had a flat at the bottom of this climb. While we were changing it a passing motorist stopped and helped us, including the use of his full size pump! The first of many friendly acts from the locals and I'm starting to realize this is typical of the people here.

We ended our day in a town called Yakomo, stealth camping in a park. We had dinner at what is apparently a Japanese chain - they had an allergy menu! After we rushed to the santo, or public bath. A santo is a bath house with the male / female sides split by a wall. You take your clothes off, wash at the shower, and then relax in the bath / hot tub. It was fantastically relaxing! And reminded me quite a bit of my Turkish Barh experience in Istanbul. Incidentally: santos are public baths which historically were the bathing place. They are dying out now, but there are still people who don't have a shower in their house who rely on the santos. Cost is ~$4.

Trip numbers:
83km today
83 km total per MapMyRide

Note km numbers: MapMyRide drains the phone battery quite a bit so I only use it for the main segments each day. Most of these are written retrospectively so I don't have the odometer reading. Total km will be much higher. But to be written yet

Our route. Map My Ride screen shots aren't great for maps, I'll replace these with proper ones later. Note the calorie values though! I'm having trouble eating enough...

Elevation profile

Bike at the entrance to our stealth camp

Hard to see but this shows ads aimed at mothers for mama charis at this bike shop

Self cleaning reflector in the tunnel. Genius! And our first of many, many tunnels

Skiing anyone? Hokkaido gets losts of snow in the winter. Lonely Planet makes the case that with cheap lift tickets here, a Japan ski trip may be cheaper than a Rockies one... Incidentally this is also the hill Brendan had a flat on.

Mountain we circled around. Not sure if it's still an active volcano

Action shot!

Random rural station, and the cute single car train running on the route.

Whiskey anyone? Yes that's a 4L bottle...

Allergy menu!

Massive amounts of food =D

Our santo proprietor

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