Day 4 started with a trip into the tourist townsite by Lake Toya, in search of an onsen (natural sento or spa). We didn't find one, but discovered they're usually connected to hotels. We did learn that Lake Toya hosted the G8 summit in 2008. A nice picturesque place for it.
Our route for the day aimed for nearby Lake Shikotsu. we followed the river inland, anticipating a slow, constant climb. And yep, it was!
Near the end of the day it started to rain. We were tired, wet and dreading upcoming switchbacks on the map, not sure if they were up or down. Ahead on the road appeared... A dinosaur!? Yep.
The dinosaur was connected to a large building with adjoining farmers market. Inside we found everything mushroom: dried mushrooms, brined mushrooms, powdered mushrooms, tempura mushrooms, fried mushrooms, fresh mushrooms, mushroom tea and wood for smoking mushrooms. The tea which was quite delightful.
After eating (well Brendan ate, I couldn't have the mushroom sausage), we reluctantly headed back into the cold, wet day. We continued climbing a couple more kilometres to a tunnel, and passed though the tunnel to an epic descent! The switchbacks were down! I think we both exceeded 50km/hr. It was an exhilarating ride :)
At the end of the descent we faced a choice: continue 20km further to a village, or turn down a questionable road to a campground. With te sun low in te sky, we opted for the campground. At first it was a nice road with lane markings, then became a strip of asphalt, then I unpaved. At this point we reassured ourselves that even if the campground was fictional, there was a lake with water we could treat.
We needn't have worried. Despite the questionable approach (which would have likely been better if we read Japanese), the campground was quite nice. We were welcomed warmly, had warm showers, and were able to do laundry the next morning. There was also sheltered sitting areas, both inside and outside.
How does my experience with a Japanese campground compare? Generally European in flavour and it reminded me a lot of one in Dublin. More tents than the Swiss ever had though.
Numbers:
53 km for the day
249km total
1 flat
Route. Lake Toya is clearly visible, but Lake Shikotsu didn't make it.
Including tea
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