Bifue campground on Lake Shikotsu was quite lovely, at least the main building amenities, it was too wet to see much else. We took advantage and did laundry. While sitting around waiting the staff gave us buns, chips, and coffee from their store, no charge. Talk about hospitality!
Eventually everything was ready and packed when the staff asked us where we were going, or as close to that as possible with minimal overlap in language! After many gestures, pointing at a map, and phrase book look ups, we became much more knowledgeable on our route. Chitose was a nearby city, approximately 40km downhill. Our next major goal of Furano would be two long, hilly days after that with no food access. Alternatively Sapporo (major city of 2million) sounded like a 2 day ride away, with a quiet but hilly northern route and flatter but busier ride through Chitose. Unclear on our plans, but approaching noon, we headed to Chitose, to decide upon the way.
Our ride into Chitose was very wet, but we did find a nice dedicated path we could follow that paralleled the road. We also flew downhill, covering the 40km in sub 2hrs! Now it was decision time: stop? Continue to Furano? To Sapporo. Soaking wet but still energic, we headed north to Sapporo, continuing to fly downhill and covering 80km in approximately 5hrs, all after lunch.
Accommodation in Sapporo was at Inos Backpackers Hostel, a Lonely Planet suggestion. Thankfully they had space for walkins. It was cute and homey, larger than Pan and Circus in Kyoto, but still with character.
For dinner we set out via subway in search of an old ramen alley. I wasn't overly optimistic I could eat. Most ramen places use fish sauce and egg noodles. I need the rare combination of pork sauce and soba (buckwheat) noodles. Pessimisticly, I inquired at three shops if I could eat, being turned away each time. The third shop even showed us that the Hokkaido noodles he and everyone else used had eggs.
I was resigned to eating elsewhere, I told Brendan to choose a ramen place for himself. He chose one that had some patrons but and empty seats. He was in the process of saying just for one person when I decided to ask one more time. I could eat both their salt and soya sauce ramen! Hooray, I'd found that rare combination! It was quite salty, but still delicious!
Sadly a bowl of ramen just isn't enough food after a day of riding. So, for the first time in my life, I went from one restaurant I'd had dinner at, directly to a second for second dinner. That night second dinner was a grill your own affair with lamb sausage, beef tongue, and shoulder. Yum!
Numbers:
78km today
327km total
1 flat so far in repairs
No comments:
Post a Comment